The Distillery District: from derelict to destination

So what happens when a group of developers employ about 400 workers for a year and a half to restore 47 derelict buildings that once housed the world's largest distillery? One of the country's premier hotbeds for arts and culture is born, that's what.

Hiding in the south-east corner of downtown Toronto, the 13 acre Distillery District is comprised of the largest group of Victorian industrial architecture on the continent. In 1988, it was named a National Historic Site and in 1990, after 153 straight years of production, The Distillery finally closed its doors. About a decade later the transformation occurred, and now the old Gooderham and Worts Distillery is a Toronto favourite and popular tourist destination.  

If it weren't for the set-up of the Toronto Christmas Market, the rusty old truck above would have been the only vehicle I saw. The Distillery District is a pedestrian-only neighbourhood and walking around, taking in the red-bricked roads and buildings will take you back to the 1800s. But as soon as you step inside one of these fascinating buildings, you're quickly reminded which century you're in. 

The shops and boutiques are filled with modern goods, offering everything from designer sound systems to kitchenware. Much of what's on display is pretty fantastic-at least until you look at the price tag. Simple, yet trendy $200 shirts in stores like Lileo are the norm, making anything more than window shopping here out of reach for most of us. 

The restaurants and cafes are a bit more accessible, and no less interesting. In these too, the industrial look and feel remains, but again, it's modernity that's on the menu. Included among them is the Mill Street Brew Pub, where you can sample several of their popular local beers. In the summer, with no cars to worry about, the neighbourhood seemingly morphs into one giant patio.

More than anything though, The Distillery District is about the arts. Throughout the area, you'll find several sculptures planted right in the middle of the cobblestone streets. Furthermore, there are a total of 22 art galleries and 17 performing art companies located here. For such a small area, that is very impressive. Clearly, the vision to provide a space that would inspire creativity has become reality. The Distillery District is a haven for artists and art lovers alike.

Over the past few years, high-rise condominiums have crept into the picture. As is often the case in this city, some people oppose the appearance of these glass towers. The juxtaposition of all the Victorian industrial buildings and the high-rise condos does make for a strange sight, and it's hard to argue that this doesn't take something away from The Distillery's authenticity. And yet, the architects responsible for them insist that by placing these towers on the outer edges of The Distillery District, its historical nature will actually be amplified by the contrast.

Whether you love them or hate them, these towers have helped make The Distillery not just a district, but a neighbourhood too. This marks another step in the transformation process that began less than a decade ago. In its new form, this hood is still very young. Here's to it having as long of a run as a place to live, create and enjoy as it did as the Gooderham and Worts Distillery.

(All photos taken by Matthew McEwan)

Less fancy, more Roncy

The bottom of Roncesvalles Avenue right now looks and feels like a bit of a no man's land. The southwest corner is essentially empty, except for one of those little parkettes the city insists you notice by adding a name and a sign. Then there are two corners occupied by a pair of empty buildings. One, a McDonald's currently closed for renovations. And the other, a formerly sketchy Coffee Time, now closed for something better. Finally, the last corner has a convenience store that seems to serve only the people at the streetcar stop waiting to be somewhere else.

So if you were entering Roncesvalles Village from here, you wouldn't be blamed for assuming this hood was nothing special.

Fortunately, you don't have to travel very far north on Roncesvalles to start thinking a little differently. One of the first things you notice is the obvious Polish identity of the street. While this neighbourhood doesn't get the recognition enjoyed by Little Italy, Chinatown or any of the city's other ethnic enclaves, it is undoubtedly Toronto's Little Poland. Polish bakeries, cafes, hair salons and other shops line the street. Whether you're in one of the pubs sipping on Tyskie or at a butcher shop picking up some kolbasa, you should be surprised if you don't hear some of the locals speaking Polish in the background.

A mainstay in the neighbourhood for almost 40 years. Famous for delicious Pierogies and other tasty Polish treats.

The further north you travel though, the less the street looks and feels like Little Poland. You start to see a lot more fair trade cafes and higher end meat shops and cheese boutiques. Thankfully, these places don't seem to carry with them the pretentiousness you sometimes find in similar spots in the city's trendier neighbourhoods. As Roncesvalles continues to mature, it will be interesting to see if this remains the case.

The rest of the commercial activity in the area offers just about everything you could ask for from a street this size. There's good pubs with live music, one of Canada's oldest movie theatres, corner fruit markets galore and just about everything in between.

Area residents fought to reopen this almost century old cinema after its closure in 2006.

Despite all of these offerings, Roncesvalles feels like a neighbourhood where people live first and shop or hangout second. There are still plenty of people out and about, they just happen to have grocery bags in their hands. And they seem dressed as though they will be returning home soon, not spending the day out on the town.

Perhaps this casual and homey atmosphere has something to do with the fact that the western half of Roncesvalles is almost entirely residential. This fairly rare feature of a neighbourhood's main street gives the area a quieter and calmer feel than it would probably have otherwise. 

Houses along the west side of Roncesvalles Ave.

The side streets of Roncesvalles Ave feature tall, old trees and pleasant looking homes.

But as I alluded to earlier, Roncesvalles is still very much a developing neighbourhood. It has already experienced some revitalization and is now approaching the tail end of a multi-year construction project that will change the face of Roncesvalles Avenue. This extensive makeover has been a major inconvenience for both residents and business owners, but it is hoped that the finished project will serve as a model for the rest of the city.

So will this new look lead to a new personality? Will the rest of the city flock to the redesigned street in search of the next hip area, ruining its cozy feel? Only time will tell. But for now, the neighbourhood referred to by locals as Roncy has a pretty good thing going.

(All photos taken by Matthew McEwan)

A day at The Beach

Woodbine Beach

All Toronto neighbourhoods are unique, but it's safe to say that nowhere in town even closely resembles The Beach (or The Beaches if you prefer). The long stretch of beach provides a beautiful little slice of California right in the city. In the summer months, the neighbourhood is packed with sunbathers and beach volleyball players looking to take advantage of this east-end getaway.

Leuty Lifeguard station on Kew Beach, built in 1920.

Contrary to popular belief, the water at these beaches is safe to swim in. The neighbourhood's Kew-Balmy and Woodbine beaches have both been awarded the Blue Flag, meaning they meet a long list of clean water criteria laid out by an international environmental organization.

The boardwalk along Kew Beach.

And the long boardwalk that runs along the water provides a perfect place to take the dog for a walk or go for a scenic jog any time of year.

The row-houses along Lake Shore Blvd.

As popular as The Beach is with tourists, there are of course people who actually live there. And some of them live in very cool homes, like the tall row-houses that wind around the Lake Shore-Woodbine curve and up to Queen Street. These colourful beach houses are located right near the water and evoke thoughts of everything summer.

Ivan Forrest Gardens

If that's not your thing, perhaps you'd favour the homes tucked behind the trees overlooking the lovely Ivan Forrest Gardens that run along Glen Manor Drive. 

Kew Gardens, located from Queen St, south to the lake, between Lee Ave and Waverley Rd.

Another beautiful park is Kew Gardens. This sizeable green space has a lot to offer: a large bandshell gazebo, baseball field, outdoor skating rink, tennis courts, and more. 

Green Eggplant, 1968 Queen Street East.

Aside from the beach itself, Queen Street East is the heart of the neighbourhood and a dream come true for residents and tourists alike. Every step you take you discover a new restaurant, like the vibrant and popular Green Eggplant.

Papa Sol's, 1966 Queen Street East

Another local favourite is Papa Sol's. This Italian sandwich shack offers huge portions and friendly service. Even if it's your first time, they'll have you feeling like a regular. You'll understand right away why their motto is, "It's not just a sandwich, it's a relationship."

The strip is also covered by great little shops for you to get lost in. Kew Beach Galleries, a tiny little used bookstore and antique shop is the perfect example. It's cramped and disorganized, yet undeniably charming. The staff and the cat roaming around make you feel right at home while you search for some hidden gems. 

Woodbine Ave

This neighbourhood is truly one of a kind. The beach themed restaurants and shops and the small town, laid back attitude make a trip there feel like a vacation within the city. Not to mention the surprisingly nice beaches and swimmable water. If you've never been, or it's been a while since your last visit, you owe it to yourself to go check it out. You may just agree that life's better in the beach.

(All photos taken by Matthew McEwan)